A winter break in Estonia & Latvia

Thursday, 8 February 2024

Baby, it's mild outside...

The Baltics in winter are a snow covered and icy wonderland....well not always. Visiting Latvia and Estonia in January is often the perfect time for kick sledding, snowshoeing and back-country skiing, husky sleigh rides and winter activities - but what is there to see and do when temperatures are on the milder side? We think to simply enjoy being in tranquil, unspoilt nature, combined with warm toasty saunas and pampering spas, cosy cafes and bars makes for a perfect winter break, whatever the weather.

Riga Old Town is full of cosy hideaways on a cold day

Arriving in Riga I was met by a calm and cosy old town with many of the Christmas lights still brightening the main streets and cafes. It was a good opportunity to explore on foot, with a wintery walk along the Daugava River and around Riga Old Town, learning lots of local insights on the best places to eat and drink from our local guide without the busy crowds.

Sigulda, Latvia

Some snow at last! We took a day trip out of Riga to the Gauja National Park. The medieval Sigulda Castle and nearby Turaida castle looked especially enchanting with a dusting of snow. Nestled in the Gauja River Valley of Latvia, the town of Sigulda is surrounded by dense forests, rolling hills and sandstone cliffs. Depending on conditions, there are some great hiking trails in the area or perhaps you would prefer to stay warm and engage in an artisan workshop where you can learn about and make crafts such as jewellery, pottery and leather.

Soomaa National Park, Estonia

Venturing further north into Estonia to Soomaa National Park, we embraced the weather and wrapped up warm. Walking on the bogs has been suggested by Lonely Planet as one of the greatest activities in Estonia - it is one of the largest peatbogs in Europe in which a spongy blanket of of rich vegetation grows on top of the water. Once I had mastered walking in bogshoes (without tripping up over my own feet and hilariously plodding around like a toddler), the wide shoes distribute your weight to keep you from sinking. This is the best way to access the bogs where is is hard or even impossible to reach on foot. You are in the middle of the wilderness, surrounded by pristine trees, moss and lichens and breathing the cleanest of air.

Most of the ice had thawed which allowed for a bit of kayaking too, this is definitely a highlight of exploring the wilderness and nature of Soomaa National Park. It is so peaceful and calm paddling through the wetlands of Soomaa.

Time to get warm again. A traditional Sauna ritual guided by an experienced sauna master and herbalist, involves a 3-4 hour process combining steam, herbal infusions and the use of birch branches for massage. Conducted in a teepee in the countryside with a sky filled with stars, we carefully chose our branches and bound them together to form our own 'whisk' before entering the sauna for mindful relaxation and a sound bath. This was a most serene evening and it was followed by a guaranteed great night's sleep! A unique experience, steeped in tradition and strongly connected with nature.

Soomaa National Park by night is a completely different experience, everywhere is silent and still with the moonlight reflecting off the partially frozen bogs. We put our spikes over our shoes, collected a lantern and followed the icy boardwalks deep into the forest. We stopped off for some stargazing in the wild heart of Soomaa with a mug of hot apple cider and some snacks, a perfect end to the day.

Amaticems, Latvia

At Dodkepu, hikers can participate in a trek with trained sled dogs. We met the pack and introduced ourselves to each member, each choosing a partner for our expedition. Connected to our Huskies, the dogs took us for a walk, allowing for hands free movement and a steady pace as we enjoyed walking in the surrounding nature. With or without snow, huskies like to pull! They also enjoy a good belly rub after your walk together to seal your bond. A fun and memorable activity in any weather.

The traditional Latvian sauna experience, known as "pirts", is a widely popular cultural and healing practice that combines steam bathing, herbal rituals and often massage, all aimed at purification of the body and spirit. Typically they a wooden-heated log structure, often located near a lake or in nature. It was the perfect way to relax my shoulder muscles after all that kayaking, with fresh and dried herbs and essential oils to ensure deep relaxation. We can also recommend some lovely hotels for you with cosy spas, pools and and relax areas for a bit of pampering.

Riga

After a few days of adventure it was time to return to Riga, with an evening stroll along the quiet Alberta and Elizabetes iela - the Art Nouveau district. Each building is a story in itself and lit up at night they give a very different view and feel. I spotted animals, figures and details in the walls that I had not previously seen in the daylight. Our guide showed me inside the Art Nouveau Centre, somewhere I had wanted to see but had never been before. It didn't disappoint - inside is the spectacular spiral staircase, one of the most magnificent examples in Europe. After a long day of travelling it was time to say goodbye and we enjoyed some traditional cottage cheese cake and coffee together in one of the nearby cafes before the next leg of my journey. Delicious!